Guatemala wasn’t originally on our travel bucket list until I accidentaly scrolled to an Instagram reel of the amazing views filmed at Casa del Mundo on Lake Atitlán. I couldn’t believe there was a swimmable freshwater lake surrounded by volcanoes in the middle of Central America. Since one of our daughters has never been much of a beach person, a trip centred around a beautiful lake instead of the ocean felt like the perfect fit for our family.
Over seven unforgettable days, we explored the lively streets of Panajachel, crossed Lake Atitlán by lancha, hiked between lakeside villages, ate incredible home-cooked Guatemalan meals, relaxed in a lakeside Airbnb, and wrapped up our trip wandering the colourful streets of Antigua during Holy Week celebrations.
Trip Snapshot
📍 Start: Guatemala City (GUA)
📅 Length: 6 Nights/7 Days
🌸 When We Visited: March (one week before Easter during Holy Week season)
📍 Destinations: Panajachel • Santa Cruz La Laguna • Jaibalito • Antigua
👨👩👧👦 Best For: Families and anyone looking for a slower-paced Guatemala itinerary
🚐 Getting Around: Private shuttles, tuk tuks, and lanchas (water taxis)
Quick Itinerary
Day 1
✈️ Arrive in Guatemala City
🚐 Private shuttle to Panajachel (2 hr 45 min)
🍽️ Traditional Guatemalan dinner with live music
🏡 Overnight in Panajachel
Day 2
🦋 Atitlán Nature Reserve
🌳 Butterfly sanctuary
🚠 Ziplining
🌅 Sunset on Lake Atitlán
🌮 Street food dinner
🏡 Overnight in Panajachel
Day 3
🛺 Tuk tuk to the docks
🚤 Private lancha to Santa Cruz
🏡 Check into Casa de Larry
🔥 Temazcal sauna
♨️ Hot tub
🏊 Swim in Lake Atitlán
🍲 Home-cooked Guatemalan dinner
Day 4
🥾 Hike to Jaibalito
🍺 German restaurant lunch
🚤 Lancha home
🌮 Homemade Guatemalan dinner
🔥 Sauna & hot tub
Day 5
☕ Relax at Casa de Larry
📷 Family photo session
🥾 Explore Santa Cruz
🌅 Sunset from the dock
Day 6
🚤 Return to Panajachel
🚐 Shuttle to Antigua
🍫 Chocolate-making class
⛪ Santa Catalina Arch
🌋 Rooftop volcano views
🎉 Holy Week processions
Planning Your Guatemala Trip
Here are a few things we learned while planning and travelling through Guatemala that may help make your trip a little smoother.
💰 Currency & 💵 Cash vs. Card
The local currency is the Guatemalan Quetzal (GTQ). While most restaurants in Antigua accepted credit cards, we found it helpful to carry cash for tuk tuks, lanchas, local markets and smaller restaurants around Lake Atitlán. We took out plenty of cash anticipating the Nature Reserve was cash only however it accepted credit cards.
🗣️ Language
Spanish is the official language. We speak very little Spanish and had no trouble getting around, although learning a few basic phrases was appreciated by locals.
☀️ Best Time to Visit
We visited in March, just before Holy Week, and thought it was the perfect time to go. The weather was warm and sunny, and we experienced some of the Holy Week festivities without the largest crowds.
🚗 Do You Need a Rental Car?
We chose not to rent a car. Instead, we booked private shuttles between destinations and used tuk tuks and lanchas around Lake Atitlán. For us, it was a stress-free way to travel. I would not recommend renting your own vehicle if you plan on heading to Panajachel/Lake Atitlan. The driving is not for the faint of heart and you’ll have to pay to store your rental car at the public dock in Panajachel when you spend your time on the lake.
🤢 Motion Sickness
If anyone in your group is prone to motion sickness, take medication before the drive to Panajachel. The final hour is extremely winding, and despite taking Gravol, two of our three kids still became carsick.
👟 What to Pack
Bring comfortable shoes for hiking and layers for the evening. While it gets warm during the day, the lake area cools down lots at night. Despite being late March, pants and a sweater are needed for evenings. During the daytime, pack as though it’s summer.
🚤 Lanchas
The public lanchas are the easiest way to travel between villages on Lake Atitlán. They’re inexpensive, run frequently during the day and are part of the experience. If you’re making Panajachel your base, you cannot bring a rental vehicle with you anywhere. All the more reason to opt for a private shuttle from the airport. Something to note, every afternoon the wind on the lake picks up. It’s called Xocomil and can make boating very choppy. Plan to take lanchas in the morning and early afternoon if possible.
👨👩👧👦 Travelling with Kids
We travelled with our kids aged 7, 11 and 13, and this itinerary worked extremely well. The mix of adventure, relaxation and cultural experiences kept everyone engaged without feeling rushed. There were so many more things we could have done on this trip (volcano hikes, visiting other towns on the lake, etc) but we opted to keep it simple.
🏊 Swimming in Lake Atitlán
Water quality varies around the lake – the north shore is the cleanest. We chose to stay near Santa Cruz La Laguna because the water is generally cleaner for swimming than it is near some of the larger towns. If swimming is high on your priority list, it’s worth choosing your accommodation with this in mind.
Day 1: Arriving in Guatemala & Exploring Panajachel
After landing in Guatemala City we took a pre-arranged a private shuttle for the 2 hour and 45 minute drive to Panajachel. We opted not to rent a car because we had heard driving could be challenging.
The first part of the drive out of Guatemala City is easy, winding through countless small towns and villages. Some communities felt as though they hadn’t changed in decades. Watching everyday life unfold was fascinating—from women in traditional Guatemalan dress washing clothes at communal wash basins to vendors selling produce along the roadside.
Not far outside the city there are plenty of places to stop, so we grabbed drinks and snacks before continuing into the mountains.
Part way through the drive, our driver had to cross a shallow body of water in the shuttle van because a bridge had washed out. Local kids direct traffic so one car can pass at a time. We were THRILLED by this point to not be driving ourselves.
If you or anyone in your family is prone to motion sickness, take this warning seriously. The final hour of this drive sucks. The mountain road into Panajachel is filled with incredibly tight switchbacks. All of our kids had taken Gravol before leaving Guatemala City, yet two of three still became carsick. It was easily the windiest road we’ve ever travelled, but thankfully the spectacular scenery at the end makes it worthwhile.
We arrived in Panajachel just before dinner and immediately fell in love with the atmosphere.
Where We Stayed
For our first two nights, we stayed in an Airbnb located directly on Calle Santander, Panajachel’s lively main street.
The location couldn’t have been better.
Stepping outside the front gate immediately put us in the middle of all the action. Calle Santander stretches from the hills all the way down to Lake Atitlán and is lined with restaurants, cafés, shops and vendors selling everything from handmade souvenirs and textiles to fresh fruit, candy and local street food.
It immediately reminded us of Khao San Road in Bangkok, although much quieter and more family friendly.
The Airbnb itself was perfect for our family. It had two bedrooms, a plunge pool, a pool table and a beautiful backyard that felt like something out of a storybook, complete with lush gardens and cozy seating areas. After a long travel day, it was the perfect place to unwind.
Dinner at Jose Pinguinos
That evening we walked across the street to Jose Pinguinos, a traditional Guatemalan restaurant that ended up being a wonderful introduction to the country’s cuisine.
The local dishes were fantastic, but what really made the evening memorable was the atmosphere. A live band played throughout dinner while locals and visitors gathered together to enjoy the music.
After dinner we wandered through town for a while, getting our bearings before heading back to the Airbnb for an early night.
Steph’s Take
If I were planning this trip again, I would absolutely stay in Panajachel for the first two nights. After an exceptionally long travel day, the last thing we wanted to do was hop on a boat to another lakeside town.
Day 2: Ziplining Above Lake Atitlán
We started our first full day with a quick walk around the corner to Supermercado La Torre, one of the larger grocery stores in Panajachel. We stocked up on snacks and supplies before making our way down to the lake.
Seeing Lake Atitlán for the first time in daylight completely took our breath away.
The deep blue water surrounded by volcanoes is beautiful and instantly confirmed that choosing Lake Atitlan had been the right decision.
After taking in the views, we grabbed a tuk tuk to the Atitlán Nature Reserve, where we had booked a morning of ziplining.
Before reaching the ziplines, we explored the reserve’s butterfly dome and spent some time hiking the forest trails.
We chose the easier of the two available zipline courses since it was our family’s first experience. Getting to the first platform requires a fairly strenuous uphill hike, but the trail includes lots of stopping points.
The course is a series of ziplines connected by short walks between platforms as you gradually descend the mountain.
Our kids absolutely loved it.
Even our seven-year-old was able to complete nearly every zipline independently. On two of the longest runs he needed to ride with one of the guides because he simply wasn’t heavy enough to make it across on his own.
Looking back, this was one of the biggest highlights of our entire Guatemala trip.
For lunch, we picked up tacos from a small taqueria near our Airbnb before spending the afternoon exploring Panajachel’s shops and markets.
As evening approached, we headed back down to the waterfront.
The lakeshore comes alive around sunset, with vendors selling everything from fresh fruit, cocktails, candy and handmade souvenirs. We grabbed a few drinks and snacks and enjoyed our own little lakeside happy hour while watching the boats come and go across the water.
For dinner, we ate at Pupusa Ladies of Panajachel, one of the most memorable meals of our trip.
The restaurant is actually a collection of local women preparing fresh pupusas and other traditional dishes beneath a huge tree with simple outdoor seating.
We ordered pupusas, empanadas and desserts, and every bite was incredible. Not only was it delicious, but it was also one of the least expensive meals we enjoyed during our time in Guatemala.
Back at the Airbnb, we spent our final evening playing pool, relaxing in the backyard and soaking in one last night in Panajachel before heading out onto the lake the following morning.
Steph’s Take
If you’re travelling with kids, don’t skip the ziplining. We were nervous because none of us had ever done it before, but it ended up being one of our favourite family memories from the entire trip.
Day 3: Crossing Lake Atitlán to Casa de Larry
After two nights in Panajachel, it was time to head out onto Lake Atitlán.
We loaded our luggage into a tuk tuk and made our way down to the docks. Since we were travelling with quite a few bags, the driver kindly made two trips to get our family and luggage to the waterfront.
Waiting for us at the docks was our private lancha—the local name for the water taxis that connect the villages around Lake Atitlán. We had arranged it ahead of time with the help of our Airbnb host.
The ride across the lake to our Airbnb near Santa Cruz La Laguna took only about 10 minutes.
Casa de Larry
Our stay at Casa de Larry was one of the reasons we booked this trip.
Lake Atitlan is huge, and there are so many lakefront towns to stay in. We chose this location because of the clean water conditions. The lake near the larger towns (Panajachel, San Lucas Toliman, etc) are exposed to run off and not as clean for swimming. The north side of the lake between San Pablo La Laguna and Santa Cruz La Laguna has the cleanest water. We chose this location because it was walking distance to a town and featured every amenity we wanted.
Perched right on the lake, the property feels more like a private resort than a vacation rental. There are multiple terraces overlooking the water, a huge covered veranda filled with hammocks, loungers and fuseball a large grassy yard, a private dock, a wood-fired temazcal sauna, a hot tub and countless little sitting areas tucked throughout the property.
Inside, the home was equally memorable. The kids immediately claimed the Moroccan-inspired room with colourful beaded curtains, and there was more than enough space for our family of five to spread out.
Larry and his wife stayed in the guest cabin at the back of the property. While we had privacy, they were a quick call away if we needed anything.
The Best Upgrade We Made
One of the biggest reasons we booked Casa de Larry was the option to hire Elena, the housekeeper, to prepare breakfast and dinner each day.
For just $20 USD per day, plus the cost of groceries, Elena and her husband came every morning and every evening to prepare authentic Guatemalan meals for our family.
It was one of the best values of our entire trip.
Before arriving, we selected our meals from a menu, and each day Elena transformed simple local ingredients into incredible homemade dishes.
That first evening we enjoyed Chicken Pepián, Guatemala’s national stew, and immediately understood why so many people recommend trying it while visiting the country.
Honestly, we couldn’t have cooked meals at home in Canada for what this cost.
Our First Afternoon on the Lake
Thanks to an early check-in, we arrived around noon and spent the afternoon simply enjoying the property.
Before dinner, we followed the lakeside path into Santa Cruz La Laguna, an easy walk that took us past beautiful homes, gardens and beautiful lake views.
Near the docks we found several tiny tiendas selling drinks and snacks before heading back to Casa de Larry for another unforgettable homemade dinner.
Steph’s Take
If you’re debating whether staying directly on the lake is worth the extra cost, my answer is absolutely yes. Casa de Larry wasn’t just a place to sleep—it became one of the highlights of our entire Guatemala trip.
Day 4: Hiking to Jaibalito
Elena prepared another incredible breakfast filled with fresh fruit, Guatemalan specialties and pancakes for the kids before we set off on a hike to Jaibalito.
The trail follows the shoreline from Santa Cruz and takes about 40 minutes at a relaxed pace. It’s considered a fairly easy hike, although there are still plenty of ups and downs along the way.
The scenery is spectacular.
The lake is constantly beside you, framed by steep cliffs, colourful homes and towering volcanoes. Along the route you’ll also pass Casa del Mundo, the hotel whose Instagram reel inspired this entire vacation in the first place. Seeing it in person was a surreal full-circle moment.
Lunch in Jaibalito
Our reward at the end of the hike was lunch at Posada Jaibalito, a small German restaurant and hostel in town.
We ordered homemade schnitzel, spaetzle and locally brewed beers, and everything was excellent.
Rather than hiking back, we walked down to the dock and hopped aboard one of the waiting public lanchas. There was no need to pre-book anything. We simply told the boat operator we were heading to Casa de Larry, and within minutes we were home.
Back at the house, we spent another relaxing afternoon alternating between swimming, soaking in the hot tub and enjoying the incredible outdoor spaces before another homemade dinner from Elena.
That evening’s menu featured traditional Guatemalan enchiladas, another local favourite and another meal we still talk about today.
Steph’s Take
This hike is one of the easiest ways to experience Lake Atitlán beyond the villages themselves. Even if you aren’t an experienced hiker, I’d highly recommend making the walk at least one way and taking a lancha back.
Day 5: Slowing Down & Soaking It All In
Our final full day at Lake Atitlán was intentionally slower.
Rather than rushing off to another attraction, we wanted to enjoy the place we’d travelled all this way to experience.
While Kyle tackled one of the larger hikes nearby, I decided to explore Santa Cruz La Laguna at a slower pace.
I wandered uphill through the village, away from the waterfront where most visitors spend their time. The climb is steep—far steeper than it looks—but it offered a fascinating glimpse into everyday life around the lake.
I passed local homes, kids playing outside at school, neighbourhood shops and quiet streets where daily life unfolded. It ended up being one of my favourite walks of the trip because it felt genuine rather than touristy.
The rest of the afternoon was spent exactly how we had hoped: swimming off the dock, relaxing in hammocks, enjoying the sauna and simply appreciating one last day at Casa de Larry.
Family Photos at Sunset
One thing I’m especially grateful we planned ahead was a family photo session.
Before arriving in Guatemala, I had arranged for a local photographer to meet us at Casa de Larry that evening.
The photographer came directly to the property, and the stunning lake backdrop did all the work. The photos turned out beautifully and have become some of our favourite family travel memories.
That final evening we enjoyed another incredible home-cooked dinner before soaking in the hot tub one last time,.
Steph’s Take
If your budget allows for one splurge in Guatemala, make it your lakeside accommodation. We loved exploring the villages, but our favourite memories weren’t from checking attractions off a list—they were the moments spent together at Casa de Larry overlooking Lake Atitlán. Those are the memories we’ll remember long after the trip.
Day 6: Exploring Antigua During Holy Week
The next morning our private lancha arrived at the dock around 10:30 a.m. to take us back across Lake Atitlán to Panajachel. From there, we met another driver from Adrenalina Tours for the journey to Antigua.
The drive took approximately 2½ hours, and while the first section winding out of the mountains was every bit as twisty as we remembered, the roads gradually straightened as we left the lake behind.
Everywhere we looked were the country’s famous chicken buses—retired North American school buses transformed into brightly coloured public transportation. Covered in colourful paint, chrome details and enormous roof racks piled high with luggage and supplies, they were impossible to miss.
By early afternoon we arrived in Antigua, where we checked into an Airbnb right in the heart of the historic city.
Lunch at the World’s Most Beautiful McDonald’s
Before leaving Canada, we had promised our kids we’d visit what many people call the world’s most beautiful McDonald’s.
It ended up being the most expensive meal of our entire trip, but it was worth it for the experience alone.
Unlike any McDonald’s we’d ever seen, this location features a Spanish colonial courtyard filled with gardens, fountains and outdoor seating. A violinist played live music throughout the courtyard, making it feel far more like a restaurant than a fast-food chain.
Wandering Antigua
After lunch we spent the afternoon exploring the colourful streets of Antigua.
We browsed the large artisan market looking for souvenirs to bring home before making our way to the city’s most recognizable landmark, the Santa Catalina Arch.
Everywhere we turned there were beautiful colonial buildings painted in vibrant colours, charming cafés and cobblestone streets framed by volcanoes in the distance.
We also stopped in Parque Central, where the kids bought cotton candy and spent time feeding the pigeons.
Chocolate Making at ChocoMuseo
That evening we had one of the activities we had been looking forward to most: a chocolate-making workshop at ChocoMuseo.
The class was both educational and hands-on, taking us through the history of cacao before giving everyone the chance to make their own chocolate bars from scratch.
It was a fantastic activity for families, and being able to take our handmade chocolate home made it even more memorable.
Sunset & Holy Week Celebrations
After the workshop we returned to our Airbnb, which featured a rooftop terrace with incredible panoramic views.
On a clear day, the terrace offers a spectacular view of Volcán de Agua, one of the iconic volcanoes overlooking Antigua.
As we relaxed on the rooftop, we suddenly heard music and cheering coming from the streets below.
We wandered outside to discover that Antigua’s Holy Week celebrations were already underway.
Processions filled the streets as people wearing long purple robes slowly carried enormous religious floats depicting scenes from the life of Jesus. The atmosphere was unlike anything we had ever experienced.
We had intentionally planned our trip for the week before Easter, hoping to experience some of the festivities without the massive crowds that arrive during Holy Week itself. It turned out to be perfect timing.
Dinner at 7 Caldos
For dinner we visited 7 Caldos. The cocktails were excellent, and I ordered a sampler platter featuring a variety of traditional Guatemalan appetizers so I could try several local specialties for my last Guatemalan meal.
Meanwhile, our kids had reached the point in every family vacation where they were craving something familiar, so they happily ordered Papa John’s pizza.
The Next Morning
Before leaving Antigua, there was one last stop we couldn’t miss.
Our oldest daughter had one request for the trip: breakfast at the famous Starbucks Antigua, often considered one of the most beautiful Starbucks locations in the world.
We arrived right after opening and enjoyed coffee and breakfast in the peaceful courtyard before taking one final stroll through the quiet streets of Antigua.
At 9:30 a.m., our shuttle arrived, and it was time to continue our Central America adventure into El Salvador. Instead of flying, we opted to hire a driver to help us cross the land border.
Steph’s Take
If I were planning this trip again, I’d still spend most of my time at Lake Atitlán, but I would absolutely keep one night in Antigua. Even in less than 24 hours, we managed to experience incredible food, fascinating history, beautiful architecture and one of the most memorable cultural celebrations we’ve ever stumbled upon. It was the perfect way to end our time in Guatemala before continuing on to El Salvador.
❓ Frequently Asked Questions
🇬🇹 Is 7 days enough for Guatemala?
Yes! Seven days is enough to experience two of Guatemala’s most popular destinations—Lake Atitlán and Antigua—without feeling rushed. We spent five nights at Lake Atitlán and one nights in Antigua, and found it to be a great balance of adventure, relaxation and culture. If you have extra time, we’d recommend adding another night at the lake.
👨👩👧👦 Is Guatemala safe for families?
We travelled throughout Guatemala with our three kids and never had a moment where we didn’t feel safe. The people were incredibly kind and welcoming.
🚐 Do you need a rental car in Guatemala?
No. We chose not to rent a car and never regretted it. We booked private shuttles between Guatemala City, Lake Atitlán and Antigua, then relied on tuk tuks and public lanchas to get around. It was affordable, convenient and allowed us to relax instead of navigating unfamiliar roads.
🏡 Should you stay in Panajachel or one of the smaller villages?
It depends on the type of experience you’re looking for. Panajachel offers more restaurants, shops and easy transportation, while villages like Santa Cruz La Laguna are quieter and feel more connected to nature. Many people use Panajachel as their base and visit different towns by lancha every day. We wanted to limit our travel time and relax at a lakefront rental so chose to split our time between Panajachel and Casa de Larry.
☀️ What is the best time of year to visit Guatemala?
The dry season, which typically runs from November through April, is generally considered the best time to visit. We travelled in March and enjoyed warm, sunny days with very little rain. It was also just before Holy Week, so we experienced some of the festive atmosphere without the largest crowds. Be warned that over Easter, Antigua becomes insanely busy and prices skyrocket for rentals.
🏊 Can you swim in Lake Atitlán?
Absolutely! Swimming was one of the highlights of our trip. Water quality varies around the lake, so if swimming is important to you, consider staying near Santa Cruz La Laguna, where the water is generally cleaner than around some of the larger towns.
🎨 Is Antigua worth visiting?
Absolutely. Antigua’s colourful streets, historic architecture and incredible food scene make it a must-see. While we loved our time there, we didn’t need more than one night with kids. If you plan on doing a guided hike to see the volcano, add an extra day.
💵 How much does a 7-day trip to Guatemala cost?
Guatemala can be surprisingly affordable, especially compared to many other popular travel destinations. Your budget will depend on where you stay and how you travel, but we found accommodations, transportation and dining to offer excellent value. Even with private shuttles and several activities, we felt we received a lot for our money.
❤️ Would we do this itinerary again?
Without hesitation. This itinerary gave us a wonderful mix of adventure, culture, relaxation and family time. If I could change one thing, I would have added the option to spend an extra night on the lake and see an additional town.
🌎 Final Thoughts
Guatemala completely exceeded our expectations. From watching the sunrise over Lake Atitlán to wandering the colourful streets of Antigua, it quickly became one of our favourite family trips.
What began as a destination inspired by a single Instagram reel became one of our favourite family adventures. We hope this itinerary helps you create memories just as unforgettable as ours. Happy travels! ✈️
THE WEEK AWAY 